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My names Andrew we have a Austrak not sure what model it is ,It has the air cooled VM engine .Its history is my brother inlaw had it to clean up a bush block which he did with seccess and some how I have it now it sat around for some years maybe 5 or 6 I got it going 3 years ago , I had to replace a steering cable but it still does not steer real well I seam to not be able to both sides driving eavenly .I have with few adaptions run our Munro post driver off it ,it handles it easly . I am a IT novis but I am very interested in knowing more about and maybe being able to get it running as it should.We are at Arthurs Creek Vic looking forward to the seccess of this site.
I too have had the same steering problem of not being able to get both sides even with the joy sticks not level after replacing the rod joining the cable to the steering mechinasim.
Is there anyone who knows how to fix this problem.
am in southern tas and have a wildcat fitted with a wisconsin v4 motor i pulled cables out and cleaned/ lubricated them there is adjustment under joy sticks ,beneath engine and at hyd motors control arms on hyd motors constantly need tightening and re-alignmentdue to vibration adjustment isnt complicated disconnect cables or connecting rods at hyd motors and mark limits on motor housings reconnect and adjust i have been constructing a road in rocky country lately and ripped wheel centres out so i need 2 wheels
Hi Christopher thanks for your contribution. It’s been so long I can’t remember now what the wheel size and stud pattern/offset is on the Wildcat. I do know that quite a few skid steer wheels appear on ebay, some which would fit my Austrak but also this seller on ebay sells a lot of stuff including ag wheels http://stores.ebay.com.au/Interlinkag-agricultural-components/_i.html?rt=nc&_sid=216513965&_trksid=p4634.c0.m14.l1581&_pgn=10 could be worth logging on and asking him of he can source suitable rims. I will edit then copy and paste your post into the for sale and wanted section. I’ve got road issues on my place and I’m sure a lot of people would be interested in your road building efforts with the Wildcat…so please tell us some more if you wish. I’m not sure whether it’s easy for you to post pics on this blog but you can send them to me at firstname.lastname@example.org if you get stuck. Thanks again.
I suggest you try one of the Loctite® threadlocking compounds on any fasteners that are working loose. I’ve used it extensively on my machines and have never had a nut or screw back off. Getting the parts completely free of oil is necessary, so wash them clean first, then dry them off before using the Loctite®
Hi Jim Deering,
Austrak Wild Cat owner in South Gippsland wanting to contact re Hydraulic pump problem. Please can you email me at email@example.com.
As you’d know, each side of the Austrak is independently driven. Early models use chain drive and later ones use shafts, powered from centrally mounted hydraulic radial or piston motors respectively, to turn the wheels
These motors are driven by hydraulic fluid, supplied by variable displacement piston pumps. The amount of oil delivered depends on the angular inclination from 90° to the pump’s drive shafts of the internal swash plate against which the pistons run as they rotate about the pump’s drive shafts. The greater this inclination, the more fluid is displaced and the faster the Austrak’s wheels go
The positions of the internal swash plates are controlled by hydraulic servos, mounted between the external yokes that are clamped abound the shafts the swash plates are moved with and the pump drive transmission, onto which all the hydraulic pumps – two wheel drives, one lifting and one PTO circuits gear pumps – in the Austrak are mounted, or some other fixed bracket on the Austrak
The servos are controlled by the steering cables, which in turn are controlled by the steering levers you operate when you want the Austrak to move
It is all very ‘kneebone connected to the shin bone’ and the connected parts must be set up to provide the same response on each side of the Austrak, otherwise the machine will tend to turn or track to one side when travelling
To obtain an equal speed on each side of the Austrak, you need to have an equal output from each of the variable displacement piston pumps – VDPP for short
Begin with both of the steering levers in the neutral position
Now confirm the yokes controlling the swash plates on both VDPP are at 90° to the body of the pumps. If this is not the case you will need to adjust the control linkages in two places
One place is the cable adjustment point. Depending on the way your machine is set up the nut and screw used to adjust the cable will be near the servos, or it will be up inside the control housing that is between your knees when you are in the driver’s seat. Back off the nut and adjust the cable as needed to move the yokes to 90° to the pump body when the lever is in the neutral position. Perform this task for both levers. This way you are starting at the beginning as it were, in setting things up right from the outset, instead of trying to compensate for one side being set up a little differently and the need to adjust the other too much
Carefully apply Loctite ® to the adjustment threads before tightening the parts. This should prevent the fasteners loosening from vibration, which is not uncommon in Austraks!
The other place is the servo. There are adjustment nuts and screws on the servos and these need to be adjusted so the servos are in the middle of their stroke when the control levers are in the neutral position and the swash plate yokes are at 90° to the VDPP drive shaft axis. This will mean both the control levers move the same amount, fore and aft, and hence the swash plates of the VDPP move the same amount fore and aft
It reads as if it is a complex task, but in practice it isn’t. It is worth using engineer’s chalk or similar to mark the 90° positions on the VDPP and to use the control lever lock to hold the steering levers as this work is done, as the movement required of the swash plates is very slight to make quite a difference to the wheel speeds
The end result is that the Austrak should have the same wheel speed on each side
Now, the safety bit. The servos only provide powered assistance if the Austrak’s engine is running and the swash plates are very difficult to move if the engine is not running
I usually lift the Austrak’s wheels completely clear of the ground and chock the machine safely, then perform these adjustments with the Austrak running. This way I can observe a large chalk mark on one wheel on each side of the Austrak and confirm they are both moving at the same speed, in both directions, before securing the control components and draw benefit from using energised hydraulics drives to move otherwise stubborn parts whilst observing their behaviour
BEWARE and AWARE that this technique is potentially very dangerous and should ONLY be performed by competent people
I’m interested in the modifications you’ve done to mount the post driver as I wish to use min in the same task. Would you post some images for us please?
Hello Lawrie and Glenda
You don’t say which machine type you have, but feel free to study the information I’ve offered about the Austrak. If a part has been replaced, there needs to be adjustment in the linkage to cater for any variation in the new part’s assembled length. If you would offer a little more information, we may be able to point you in the right direction…
T he tractor with the steering problem is a 1973 Wildcat with a v4 Wisconson motor with skid steer. On this one we run a slasher and bull blade, plus 3 point linkage carry-all etc.
The one with the air over hydraulic brake problem is a later model we are not sure what year. It has a toyota motor in it, is a constant 4 wheel drive with a diff back and front. It is also a skid steer. We now know that a new air tank is required what else is yet to be discovered when restoration starts sometime in the future.
Further to my prior message about the Austrak steering adjustment
If all that mentioned previously is done and the machine still does not steer correctly, you could try checking the tyre pressures are all even. If you have one tyre that is more inflated than the others, the machine may tend to steer to one side. I mention over-inflated specifically, because a “flat” tyre is easy to see; one that it too tight though, isn’t. I run my Austrak tyres at 30PSI, but you could vary this to suit your terrain, tasks and machine loads
If that doesn’t cure the ill, you may need to have the VDPPs output flows and pressures checked, as well as the wheel motors for internal leaking. This is best performed by a hydraulics engineer, as they have the equipment for the job
In the event that either or both of these components on each side are not well-matched, the Austrak will track one way or the other. It may also generate less force on one side
In extreme cases, particularly in Austraks with radial piston wheel drive motors, Austraks can ‘limp’ when travelling. This is due to one –and sometimes more – piston trunnion seals leaking when the distribution port, which is timed to the crank shaft, delivers high pressure oil to the piston in question and the piston’s seals lose some of that delivery via the case drain line. If this is the case it can be best described as a limp and if your Austrak is doing that, I think you’d pick it…
Do the simple rectifications and checks first, and the more involved assessment later, if needed
If you have a look on ebay right now there is one for sale with all the implements.
AUSTRAK RT 45 skid steer 4×4 loader,backhoe,slaher
I’ve been avoiding talking about it because of the possibility that we could all be bidding against one another…..
A very similar machine was sold from the Trading Post back in November for $14g’s so at the moment the auction is doing well for the seller. It will be interesting to see how it all works out.
102 visitors to the site today!!….120 when I woke this morning…..!! best day yet…
G Day my names Bryan, its fantastic to see this site as i am slowly restoring and using [at the same time] a WildCat with a bucket on front. I bought it around 4 years ago with a blown motor and perished hoses from sitting in the open for years. It has a wisconsin vh4d V4 motor that i totaly re built and now runs sweet, fitted new hoses and test ran to make sure drives were ok. Runs quite well. Since then i have painted inside body re wired and added a oilfilter in retern line to tank. Have used a fair bit since then and at present re building chain drive to wheels, inc new chains bearings and seals. I am located at Yackandandah victoria and looking forward to seeing the site grow. Thanks for putting this site together
Hi Bryan thanks for the post. How about posting a pic of your Wildcat it sounds like you are making good progress and I’m sure we would all like to see it.
At last I am able to send some photos of our two Wildcats.
The first one we bought new in Dec 1973. It has V4 Wisconson motor with chain driven skid steer. I believe it was one of the early 2nd model.
The 2nd is a bit of a mistery to us. It has a Toyota motor wiht clutch and gears, air over hydraulic brakes, constant 4 wheel drive with skid steer.
If any could enlighten us with some history on this model we would greatly appreciate it as we would make a history board to display with it at vintage rallies etc. Restoration will take quite a while due to the sad state it is in after sitting in the shed for the last 20 years. We got a suprise when we counted the years today, didn’t think it was anywhere near that .Where does time go.
Rob Barnard says:
February 22, 2011 at 3:13 am (Edit)
I bought an Austrak RT45 off e-bay last year.
It was a bit rough and I’ve gradually been fixing it up.
It’s an older chain drive unit and came with the 5ft slasher, 6ft twin mower deck and the grader blade.
It’s got a 3cyl 40hp air cooled Lombardini diesel engine
It lives and works on a property in the Otways.
I get down there from Melbourne most weekends.
I have some parts drawings and the Owners manual plus loads of spare engine parts
My contact number is 0419 510 823
My contact number is 0419 510 823
Hi Rob ,is it possible to get copies of the owners manual , I have just bought 2 ,one going chain drive and the other not shaft drive
thanks regards Tony
I am new to this and will be commenting on behalf of my father who is very clueless when it comes to computers.
We own a Wildcat (we call it “the beast”) with a 4 cylinder motor (Wagner??) With a grader blade and a slasher. When we it first arrived it wouldn’t start and the engine was re-built by a family friend. “Motor was buggered” my Dad’s words, not mine. Something was wrong with the pistons. Now 6 months later she is running great but with one minor issue. The rotation on the slasher will not spin fast enough to cut grass. And will even stop on the thicker grass patches. So, does anyone have any ideas on how to solve this annoying issue???
Also, does anyone where we could get a copy of owners manual??
–I will try and put some pictures up–
Kym and Garry
Dad has just informed me, that when the slasher is going the ram does not have enough power to lift it up. Would this indicate that the hydraulic motor is the problem??
And thanks for your email John, lot of information. 🙂
hi,i also haves the same problem with slasher not spinning fast enough and not lifting properly when slasher is engaged,have you been able to rectify the problem?if you have I would be very happy to know,also any other info would be greatly appreciated,thanks james g
I’m no expert on Wildcats but I think they have belt drive to the hydraulic pumps, so I’d start there as it could need to be tightened up.
Let us know if this helps
As Jim said the Wildcat has belts to drive the hydraulics so if you have tried to tighten them without success it may be the pump on the slasher needs attention.I have had to have mine serviced when I was using it a lot.I have had to replace the belts and oil filter and the hydraulic pump on the slasher reconditioned.The oil tank has to be full, the right revs are also necessary . Check the oil filter as if it is dirty it will cause trouble.
Our Wildcat has a Wisconsin motor and has a 4 lever motor spool on it and I am not sure if your Wankel motor model would be the same yours is an earlier model than ours which is a 1973 model. I am guessing that there would not be too much difference as far as the slasher is concerned. We hope this is of some help to you.
Lawrie and Glenda Cornell
Great site you have here, information is great, hard to find out much about these machines on the web.
I have owned an Austrak RT45 for the last 21 years, It is still going, but as anything old something always goes wrong each time I use it in the paddock, blown hose, broken servo link, slipping cables in controls, fuel leaks etc,.
But in saying that, I started it up today after sitting for about 2 years, as my health was taking priority, charged a battery, whacked it in and after 2 or 3 goes she fired up fine, used it for 5 minutes and bang blew a main hose to the left hand drive motor, must be about the 5th hose that has blown since I bought it, so thats not too bad I suppose.
Going to do a bit more work with it then strip it down and give it a bit of long needed TLC, as I live near the coast I get a bit of rust from the salt air, so a good sanding and coat of paint is in order.
Replace a few seals on the motor, which is a 53hp VM 3 cylinder Diesel, air cooled.
I will put a few pics in the gallery when i get a chance to clean her up a bit.
I bought the tractor from a guy at Dorrigo NSW, it came with the front mount slasher (what a beast), and me and my mate years ago made a front mount pusing blade for it from the diagram in the owners manual which I still have and also a maual for the motor aswell.
Hi all i will have soon a drive motor/brake assy to suit newer austraks for sale as i cant find a new motor for other side so doing a conversion using rexroth angle drive motors replacing the missing motor and the this unit, it is a shaft drive vmhr494 powered shaft drive austrak, 1987, approx 4700hrs, motor was in a good running condition when taken out no leaks or metal in system, if one desires i can reconnect hose’s & a flow meter to inspect it running. from what i can gather/source the internals have southcott components/austrak casing. motor/brake assy,
serial number: 129w-89-157, model number: 137-505-004
Im welcome to offers/inquires please ring me on 0408293427
i also have owners manuals/brochures & hydraulic schematics to suit the newer machines, i can scan them and email them if someone wants.
I’m chasing a couple of Southcott drive pumps and the reduction gearbox, if you happen to still have any parts available?
0467 677 759
Hello again people,
I have been given a very old Wildcat that has been rusting away in the paddock for many many years, i used to ride in this tractor when i was a young feller with the former owner. Since the engine has been removed and is in many pieces i was wondering if anyone has any info like manuals etc that would help me to work out where all the bits go back in. The engine is a Wisconsin V4 i think.
Thank you in advance for any help i can get.
Email me firstname.lastname@example.org
Hi all, today is the day i pick up my brand new (cough cough) Wiliames Wildcat (1973/4 model).
This was one of only three sent to Tasmania I believe so if anybody has any information on it I would be very grateful.
I have just bought it sight unseen in perfect running condition, new sprockets, chains etc and the motor has done very few hours.
Lots of implements with it but I will be looking for a front end loader.
Now to questions…
I have never even seen one of these in the flesh and have heard that they are amphibious. Is that true?
How easy is it to fit a three point linkage?
Is an auger attachment available for these?
Hopefully someone can answer some of these questions and I am sure to have lots more.
I will post photos up here once I get the beast and I think I shall call her Priscilla.
This looks like one hell of a machine and loads of fun (Don’t tell the wife I said that – I actually bought it to do some work around the farm)
This will be a day to remember!!!!!!
That’s great news Alan. Welcome!
Thanks, it should be pretty cool
Hi Alan and welcome to the site
As I understand it, Wildcats were available with flotation tanks, offered as an accessory, which made it possible for them to float. They were also offered with hydraulic outboard motors, completing the amphibious package. I would NOT, however, say any Wildcat – or Supercat – would float in any guise, as without the flotation tanks… You would have a submarine in a very short time, so don’t try to swim it!
The factory three pint linkage was a substantial item, but if you have one, it should be relatively easy to fit. If you are going from scratch to build one, or adapt something else, it will come down to looking at old photos – there are some on this site of the Wildcat 3PL I think to make one as per the original. To adapt another will require your ingenuity to make it as simple as you can. Certainly the hydraulic couplings are there, already on the machine. Geoff Williames was a long way ahead of most other tractor designers in a multitude of ways
I’m not sure about factory augers – for post holes I assume – but, again, the hydraulic capacity is there to operate such a thing
I’m interested in knowing more about 3PL as you have said look at pictures ?
I have looked at all i can find here and can not see such an attachment, reason i ask is i think i have part of the 3PL unit but not sure and would love to see a picture showing the thing in action.
OK Ray, I have just posted the only detail I have on the 3pl.https://austrak-wildcat.com/2013/06/15/3pl1-jpg/ the photo is pretty self explanatory. Linkage arms can be sourced from tractor parts suppliers for not a lot of money but you will need to fabricate the lift mechanism and the mounting for the 3pl top link, The layout on the Wildcat uses a single hydraulic ram to operate the lift function. Ram is mounted on the edge of the tub and operates a shaft to which the lifting points are attached, It’s not rocket science but would need a fair bit of skill to get right.
PTO is delivered by a hydraulic motor location of which is pretty clear in the pic
Could anyone tell me if the RT 45 that was forsale in Canungra QLD recently has been sold or not as the gumtree add has gone. Or contact details
We bought a 1980 rt45 at work for somd steep terrain work. We worked out the operation of the machine except the park break: there is no difference between on/off with the engine running. Any known problems with the switch (valve?) on the rt45?
Hi James, at a guess it was my wildcat that you bought (not a hard guess – recently bought and your name is James LOL).. Slasher was working fine (blackberries and bracken) but I did blow a hydraulic hose and wonder if you may be on right track with system needing bleeding. I didn’t do any more slashing after fixing hose as I fitted the blade to take top off driveway (which I forgot to do). Will chase up that manual tomorrow and post it asap. I will also see if I can chase up a number for previous owner as he knows the machine inside and out (much better than me) Cheers James. Alan
cheers alan ,that would be great,hope I can work out problem
Hi All, I have recently discovered this interesting looking tractor when I saw Alans ad on Gumtree, and a recent ad on this site for an RT45 in Victoria, both of which have been sold.
Can anyone here answer some questions which will help me decide to find/buy one in the future?
From what I can gather from this site is most parts were generic off the shelf items, easy to replace in the 70’s and 80’s. Is this still the case are ALL spares still easily available?
Does anyone have a manual/instructions for the tractor/accessories
Does anyone know any of the owners in Tasmania so I may be able to see/ talk to them about the tractor.
Thanks and Regards
hi steve,my dad recently purchased alans wildcat,it does need a few repairs but everything we have had to get is pretty easy to source ,the Wisconsin engine is still being produced and all the rest of it looks like generic hydraulic parts off common systems,the only problem we are having is the slasher wont spin fast enough,alan blew a hose and it leaked fluid out,not sure if it has an air block/flow problem or pump seals have run dry?in process of working out,the auxiliary hydraulic pump is a Vickers,havnt actually brought any parts for it yet but they still make them so I assume you can still get parts,cheers james
Thanks James thats good to hear about the parts, I hope you get that slasher sorted soon. I’d love to see it running too, send me a text or phone call on 045855774 if you and your dad would be ok with that.
does anyone have an owners manual for wildcat?would like to purchase one if someone has one hiding away or if anybody who has one could do me a copy that would be greatly appreciated,also any information on the hydraulic slasher would be very helpful,from what I have researched the hydraulic motor on slasher is no longer available,apparently Plessey dynamics closed 5-6 years ago, I cant even find the specs on Plessey dynamics motors to see if I can get a equilavent motor? the Vickers hydraulic pump that drives auxiliaries is still quite popular ,you can still buy pumps and get parts very easily.if anyone could help me out I would be very thankfull as it is a bit frustrating without a manual.my number is 0477150294 if anyone wishes to contact me,or if I may be able to help with anything,cheers james
Hi James, I have found the manual – could you send me your address again and I will get it in the post asap email@example.com
Hi we own an Austrak and actually my farther was one of the main heads of the austrak company and we were looking for are newer one. we own an rt45 but the conditions bad so we were loocking for a new one. we have spare parts but it seems very difficult to fix. if anyone has seen one for sale we would love to take it under our wing. firstname.lastname@example.org
Hi we own an Austrak and actually my farther used to work one of the main heads of the austrak company, we were looking for are newer one. we own an rt45 but the conditions bad so we were loocking for an upgrade. we have spare parts but it seems very difficult to fix. if anyone has seen one for sale we would love to take it under our wing. email@example.com
sorry about repost
Hi everyone, my father and I have an austrak (VM engine, shaft drive but no idea what year exactly) to use for steep terrain slashing. Firstly, the places this thing will go is truly amazing, every man and his dog should have one. In doing this work we’ve discovered a couple of “issues”.
1. The controls are rediculously twitchy when trying to do super slow crawling (eg. Loading onto the truck for transport, scary stuff) which I belive is caused by the hydraulic servos
2. The engine runs out of puff going forwards up hills something chronic, but if you turn around and reverse, it’ll go up near vertical banks as fast as you like.
3. The engine tends to pump oil out the breather pipe at about 2L an hour (we’ve more or less decided the engine will self destruct at any second)
If anyone has come across any of these problems and has any sort of solutions we would greatly appreciate it.
Hi Owen, I passed on your post to Jim Deering who has a serious attack of the smarts when it comes to Austraks, here are his comments…let us know how you go!
1/ The servos probably aren’t the problem as such. It is possible some work was done on the unit in this area in the past and some well-meaning soul may have removed two drilled-out grub screws in one, or more likely both, of the fittings in the circuits which deliver oil to the servos from the charge pumps on the wheel drive pumps. Without these restrictors, the oil flow is quite large and this causes the servos to move quickly, which results in rapid changes to the swash plate inside the wheel drive pumps. From a small amount of control lever movement there will be a rapid and excessive response from the machine. “Bucks like a bull” is one description. Now, as to where to look, that is a job for you! The servo oil delivery lines are small and short so it is not going to take forever to find and/or remove one to dismantle it. I’d be looking for a tapped hole inside one of the fittings – look closely because it’ll be hard to see. If you find that, it’ll need a restrictor screwed into it, like described above. Another option is to fit a standard reducing fitting in the line – in line with the existing fittings that is – which will reduce the oil flow to the servo. Ditto the other side. Now if this doesn’t slow the response down, you’d better come back to us. Of course don’t undertake this if you are not knowledgeable in this sort of thing and you do it at your own risk.
2/ Yep, got me with this as it’s just guessing without seeing the machine. Sure its getting enough fuel going in both directions? Might be an issue with the hydraulics too, though that would probably manifest itself on flat going… Sure it is the engine and not the hydraulics running out of grunt?
3/ Sounds like a crankcase vacuum issue so you might have a loose fitting in the crankcase – could be simple like a dipstick not seated or a missing O-ring on the dipper or its tube into the crankcase. Might be elsewhere on a breather line too. Could be more involved like a leaky piston ring. If you can’t get to the bottom of this I suggest employing a competent diesel engine mechanic to check this out. That will be far cheaper than a new engine!
See how that goes and let us know how it goes
hi everyone, i am the new owner of an austrak RT45 in bega N.S.W. has anyone done much with the drive motors in terms of polishing and shimming valve plates/swash plates? i am in the process of a full rebuild of the motor and will let you all know how it goes. it is tedious and time consuming work but i am hoping it does the trick. tests so far have been encouraging in that the wheels have turned. from no movement whatsoever to rotating was pretty exciting especially when i was told the day before it couldn’t be done! PLEASE get in touch if you have any thoughts. i am keen to get this back to its former glory.
I have a wiliams wildcat i think it is a 1973 model with the v4 petrol motor i need to top up the hydraulic fluid and was wondering what grade fluid i should use . It also runs a hydraulic slasher . Thanks matt
Hi Matt, I think initially that Wildcats ran Dextron auto transmission fluid, mainly for the two hydrostatic transmissions. I think there are varying opinions about whether that is the best choice, but I used it when I had a 1973 Wildcat. Geoff Williames the bloke who designed the machines is still operating in Warragul. Email is firstname.lastname@example.org he was very helpful to me back in ancient times when I owned a Wildcat. I think he would be able to answer your question definitively.
Thanks for the help i have found a manual with some paperwork but it has two different types of hydaulic oil listed 65 and 45 not sure if one was for the drive motors and the other was for the slasher.
Hi Matt, on my machine there was only one hydraulic fluid tank and that supplied oil to both the systems. If you only have one tank then it would be one grade of oil. Mine ran on Dextron auto transmission fluid and that was the info in the manual for it. The drive motors and the drive pumps were intergrated units in one housing. Pump on top and motor on the bottom. One unit at either end of the Wisconsin crank shaft. The lift and hydraulic power circuits were fed by a vickers gear pump that was belt driven and mounted a bit like a car alternator. Both systems were provioded with hydraulic fluid from the single tank.
Hi Every-one .
I now have our family AUSTRAK RT45 … lombardini 833 3 cylinder diesel .It sat in the shed for about 20 years … a new battery, new oil , filters , diesel … bled the injector line and it started on the 4th turn .Amazing machine !!! it was bought new to clear a property on the northern NSW coast , and is now on the QLD Sunshine Coast .I have a slasher , blade and after-market bucket . I was hoping some-one on this site had a service manual ?? as i would eventually like to do a bit of restoration work to it . I need to replace the engine mounts now and then work my way up .
Hoping some-one can help . Mark .
Hi Mark I have some material on the Lombardini 833 machines….yours for the cost of copying and postage. let me know if you want a copy. Basically the machine is a collection of off the shelf parts. The biggest proprietary item is the one into three gearbox that allows the pumps to be coupled to the motor. Replacement parts for the main pumps may still be available from Southcott the manufacturer. The drive motors are no longer supported by SAI with the exception of items like seals. The gearpump that drives the ancillary lift and power circuits for implements were made by Uchida I think. There is a chap in Qld flogging Chinese copies of Uchida pumps at a good price who may be able to pick up a correctly sized replacement from him if you need it. Anyway your engine mounts should be generic items….remove one and take it to an engineering supplier…you should have no problems sourcing replacementd.
Hi John. Do you still have some documents on austrak RT 45
Does anyone know the oil capacity of the VM 1053 engine, including filter change? My dipstick slides in and out so it’s of no use to me.
Thanks in advance,
Can anyone here tell me if it’s possible to remove the internal fuel injection pump from a VM 1053-SU without removing the heads? Two of the pushrod tubes fit into the top of the pump and I can’t see how else to get them out. I’ve bought a workshop manual for three engine but it does not discuss the pumps as there were many variations.
Hi Col I think Mike Trethewie and Neil Munro both have VM powered machines I think the contact details are somewhere on the site. If not I will find them for you when I get back home on the weekend
I have a RT 45 chain drive 1980s I am fitting a deutz f 1011 to replace the lombardini that put a con rod through the block on the previous owner. I am looking for a Austrak manual & spares have replaced pump & engine mounts lots of hoses main drive bearings & removed the servos to convert to stick controls. the chains on the bottom have a lot of slack at the bottom are they adjustable or do I replace them.my blown motor may be handy for someone for spares.
We have a austrak wildcat with Lombardini 833 in it , not sure the year as can’t find the
It’s all complete little bit shabby no rust though
Has the rippers slasher and blade
Doesn’t run may be seized as can’t spin it ov er
Wiring pretty ordinary
seem to be all there though motor was supposedly good but think not the case
I was about to pull the head and a bit of inspection but still haven’t done it
Will need some love
4500 in any one interested
I’d post some pics but don’t k ow how
Where are you located, would love to see some pics ?